Wednesday, 13 May 2015
Refashion Tips: Fix a dropped shoulder on shirts
Recently we unveiled Castaway to Couture an an exciting, national refashioning competition, open to the public, ASG members & Red Cross people too! Castaway to Couture is brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Inc. in collaboration with Red Cross Shops. Entries are open and we have our resident refashioning genie, Judith Turner here, with the eleventh in a series of tips. Take it away Judith.........
Wouldn’t it be great if you could buy clothes that fit perfectly off the rack? Thinking about what issues people have with garments, another bit problem is what I called the Dropped Shoulder issue. Some manufacturers think we are quarter backs, with broad shoulders. Not!
When you come across a shirt with a dropped shoulder, the first step is to place a row of pins around your shoulder at the point you want the sleeve to sit at. Top left pic.
Next do a line drawing of the armhole, with a line at the top on an angle for the shoulder seam. On the right of the shoulder seam write F for front and on the left hand side of the shoulder seam write B for back.
Now measure the pins from the existing armhole working around the front down to the armhole then from the shoulder seam around the back to the underarm.
Unpick the armhole. In most cases leave a small section at the underarm. However if there is a lot to raise it by you may want to unpick the whole sleeve. If this is the case, place a piece of white fabric with R on it and pin to the right sleeve. Do the same with the left sleeve. This will ensure the right sleeves are pinned to the correct armhole. Middle Left line drawing.
Mark around the sleeve cap. I usually put a dot for the new length and another dot for the seam allowance. Cut on the seam allowance line. Bottom left pic.
The sleeve should not have been touched, however it may require a gathering stitch around the top with a slight ease in it so that the sleeve sits correctly.
Pin the sleeve back on with the pins inserted into the sleeve (not the shoulder) and if more easing is required do it at the sides of the armhole. Bottom middle pic
Overlock off any excess and it is finished. Bottom right pic.
Alterations like this one may seem like a big job, but if you get into the habit of doing an alteration, working backwards from how it was put together, you will become quick and proficient at altering.
Judith Turner a.k.a genie
Keep an eye on this blog for more hints, tips and ideas! We want to keep you buzzing with ideas, so not only will you hear from Judith, we will have some inspirational blogs to check out. This week, we suggest checking out Refashionista, So, Zo and The Pineneedle Collective. Have a great week, we can't wait to see your entries!