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Wednesday, 18 March 2015

Refashion Tips: Create dart in lined garment

Recently we unveiled Castaway to Couture an an exciting, national refashioning competition, open to the public, ASG members & Red Cross people too! Castaway to Couture is brought to you by the Australian Sewing Guild Inc. in collaboration with Red Cross Shops. Entries are open and we have our resident refashioning genie, Judith Turner here, with the third of a series of tips. Take it away Judith.........

It would be amazing if you find a garment that fits your body shape, particularly in the upper body area around the bust. Garments will either have sleeves or will be sleeveless. Imagine a sleeveless dress that fits beautifully at the waist and hips, but the front of the armhole is gaping. I know that you are going to remodel and reshape but you still want the bust area to fit you perfectly. The natural step, if it is too big in the armhole, is to insert a dart. Is there a quick and easy way to do this? What if the garment is lined? Another issue could be that the fabric is sheer. Creating darts in a garment that is lined and sheer can be a challenge. And how are you going to line up the dart on the sheer fabric with the dart on the lining. This is almost impossible to do. But I have a solution for you.

First pin the dart whilst it is on your body. For this process it is better to have the garment on the right way with right side on the outside (not inside out). Place the first pin at the armhole but facing in towards your body. This will eliminate the pin harming you. Move to within 2.5 cm (1 in) from your nipple and place a pin on the very edge of the fabric. One section of the pin (nipple end) will be at the edge of the fold and the end facing towards the armhole will have more fabric taken up to create the dart. Place the third pin between the first and third pin.

Take the garment off and measure the dart.

Start at the armhole end and measure from the pin to the fold. Write this amount down. Next, measure the second pin. The last pin is your dart length. Most darts have a length from 7.5 – 12.5 cm (3 – 5 in). Write the length of the dart down.

Before taking the pins out, place a pin through the center of the dart which is the folded section. Initially only have the pin through the outer layer. Take out the pins forming the dart. You will only have the pins through the center now.

The next step is to pin the lining to the outer so that it is in exactly the same position. An ironing board is the best option, and a tailors arm will make it even easier to do. Once you are happy that the lining and the outer are matched, move the pins so that they are through both layers.

Start at the armhole edge and stitch both layers together.

Place a dot from the stitch line for the new dart width at the armhole. Fold the fabric with the stitching in the center and sew the dart. Hand stitch the dart on the other side to the lining.

Happy remodeling and recycling

Judith aka genie

Keep an eye on this blog for more hints, tips and ideas! We want to keep you buzzing with ideas, so not only will you hear from Judith, we will have some inspirational blogs to check out. This week, we suggest checking out Refashionista, So, Zo and The Pineneedle Collective. Have a great week, we can't wait to see your entries!

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